CUBANET ... CUBANEWS

January 17 , 2001



Castro's Catastrophe, Part 2

Barry Farber. NewsMax.com.Tuesday, Jan. 17, 2001

Cuba has got to be the only communist country in the world that's 100 percent Marx: 50 percent Karl and 50 percent Groucho.

What other communist country refuses to let the visitor spend the local currency, insisting instead on the dollars of the Great Capitalist Satan, America?

What other communist country brags about the "capitalist injections" (free enterprise restaurants, private plumbers, private English teachers, etc.) it claims do such a fine job keeping communism going?

What other communist country bans the music of the Beatles yet has a statue of John Lennon in one of its more prominent public parks? (It's a sitting statue on a bench. Visitors like to be photographed sitting beside John Lennon. The statue is so eerily realistic I had to poke a finger through his eyeglasses to see whether there was a glass lens or merely a hole!) Cubans suspect that Fidel, who banned the Beatles' music, thought he was approving of a statue not of Lennon but of Lenin!

In what other communist country do you hear the song "Guantanamera" 189 times a day and never one note of the communist "Internationale"?

Official Cuban government guides, carefully screened by the communist authorities for their political reliability, explain food procurement in Cuba bluntly enough to be fired, imprisoned and possibly even executed in other communist countries.

Our guide forthrightly explained it as follows. There's a three-step method of getting enough to eat, she said. First, there's your ration; every Cuban gets a small allotment of rice, beans, cooking oil, and a few other items including milk for all children up to age 7. Then, the explanation continued, there are "dollar stores" where Cubans with dollars procured from tourists as tips or from relatives in America or elsewhere may go to buy food for dollars, not Cuban pesos. And lastly, the guide perfunctorily explained, there's the black market!

How do the Cuban people feel about Fidel Castro? In the absence of elections, opposition political parties and a free press, you look for clues. The first clue comes when you see Che Guevara's picture virtually everywhere and Castro's picture virtually nowhere. Name another communist leader who willingly cedes media fame and credit for the state of the union to deceased associates.

A much stronger clue came to me and my daughter Celia through the medium of music. The set-up requires we back up a few decades.

In 1956 I happened to be in communist Yugoslavia. I was walking down the street in downtown Zagreb, now the capital of Croatia, when I heard a song booming out of a record store. It was a song about the leader, Tito, that was hilarious because the words "Tito, Tito, Tito" made up 90 percent of the lyrics. I knew that song would break them up when I got back to North Carolina, so I went into the shop and asked for a copy.

The young woman behind the counter dutifully reached for a record (Remember them?) when suddenly six burly Croatian men appeared. "Don't sell him that [expletive]!" they said. "Sell him some of our Croatian folk music." The men supposed I was an American who didn't understand Serbo-Croatian, but I understood well enough to gather the following. The flustered young woman told them, "That's what he asked for." They hammered back: "He's a foreigner. He doesn't know what he wants. Don't you dare sell him that Tito [another expletive]!"

I prevailed, walked out with my record, and North Carolina was indeed delighted with my musical evidence of communist sycophancy to the strongman Tito.

Jump to Cuba in 2001. A band of musicians came over to make sure we heard "Guantanamera" yet another time. I was feeling expansive and decided to stage a little experiment.

"I was here in 1959 when Fidel took over," I told them. "And there were some great revolutionary songs that everybody was singing." I then launched into song. "Ahora hay muchos Fidelistas," I sang. "De boton en la solapa, que tenian carnet y chapa, de la porra de Batista. Justicia para mi pueblo, para mi pueblo justicia."

Translation: "Now there are many Fidel followers who wear his button in their lapels but who used to hold important positions in the dictatorship of Batista. Justice for my people. For my people, justice."

Call it a freak or a fetish, I happen to know a lot of communist songs from different communist countries, and I know the typical reactions when folks from those countries hear them. The most anti-communist Bulgarians, for example, are delighted to hear an American haul off and sing some ridiculous Bulgarian communist fight song from the 1950s. I would have bet money that, regardless of the musicians' real feelings about Fidel, they would have laughed and cheered and shouted "bravo" when an American tourist in Cuba surprised them with a pro-Fidel song from 1959.

Wrong! The table serenade was over. The musicians winced and walked away. Those Yugoslavs in 1956 didn't want to hear any songs about Tito, and those Cubans in 2001 didn't want to hear any songs about Castro.

My daughter Celia was invited to return to America from Cuba by boat from Havana to the Florida Keys. She leapt at the chance, but not as enthusiastically, I suspect, as she leapt ashore after a crossing which I hope was not as harrowing for her to experience as it was for me to hear about. It was a sturdy, seaworthy catamaran that slept eight, but the 7-foot waves made everybody so ill the rum and the food were never touched throughout the 22-hour voyage.

Celia helped me understand in a more profound way than I had before how totally desparate the Cubans are who try to escape in much smaller boats and even rafts. They know those waters. Can you imagine being so opposed to what a dictator is doing to your homeland that you're willing to bet your life at disadvantageous odds in an attempt to get out?

How do they feel about Fidel? There's a danger that my lifelong detestation of dictatorships tinctures my assessment, but I believe a famous old joke from European dictatorships could now be applied to Cuba.

It's the one about the American tourist who we'll pretend goes into a bar in Havana and asks the Cuban on the stool beside him how he really feels about Fidel.

The Cuban looks furtively both ways to make sure the blatant question did not attract anyone else's attention. Seeing it has not, the Cuban motions the American to follow him. He leads the visitor down the block, then to a dark alley, then to an alcove in an abandoned building off that dark alley.

The Cuban then whispers to the American, "Don't tell anybody, but I LIKE him!"

See Castro's catastrophe: a visit to today's Cuba

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