Fred Kuzyk and Lynn Kuzyk, Special to The Globe and Mail. Saturday, January 8, 2000
Beware: Everyone in Cuba has 'a friend at the factory' more than willing to sell you worthless counterfeits.
Havana, Cuba -- On any given day, this scene is played out at any tobacconist shop in Canada. A customer enters with a prized box of Cuban cigars, having just returned home from his recent trip to Cuba. Odds are he will be disappointed to find that his "great deal" will be worthless
counterfeits. Too often, tourists to Cuba only know of the reputation of fine Cuban cigars -- and their high cost here. Seldom do they do any research on them before they arrive, nor do they know where they should go shopping to avoid the fakes.
The best advice is to purchase only at legitimate shops. Avoid deals from hotel employees or on the street. It seems that everyone in Cuba has "a friend at the factory." Even the shops at smaller airports in Cuba have been known to have bogus product. This is where your research comes
in: Get to know cigars -- from books, magazines and the Internet.
If you are serious about Havana cigars, there really is only one place to go in Cuba: Havana. This is where the famous factories are located, and the city has the best availability and selection. There's something special about savouring a fine Havana cigar in the city of its creation. For
enthusiasts, it's something akin to enjoying a fine Bordeaux at a restaurant in that region of France.
Prices on boxes are now standardized throughout Havana, versus the vast price differences at shops a couple of years ago. While prices have gone up, they are lower at certain locations than even two years ago. And famous brands are now readily available in Churchill and Double Corona lengths
(about 18 and 19-21.5 centimetres respectively). It's best to call around to find out what's in stock. Check frequently. New shipments can come in at any time. Single cigar sales are limited at shops. However, there are lounges and restaurants where you can sample them.
Almost every major hotel in Havana has a well-stocked cigar shop. The Melia Cohiba, Nacional, Comodoro and Golden Tulip are among the best. Walk-in humidors are common, as are cigar bars and lounges. Many hotels and tourist spots also have rollers, so you can see how it's done and buy one fresh
from the bench.
Although the new Melia Havana hotel didn't have a shop on our last visit, it does have the excellent Vegas Robaina Cigar Bar, with a large selection of single cigars. It's perhaps the only place in town where you can sample the recently introduced Vegas Robaina brand.
The Melia Cohiba (Paseo and First Avenue, at the Malecon, Vedado) is superlative from a cigar perspective. The El Corojo cigar shop has a roller and is well stocked with various brands, accessories and magazines. The staff is friendly and helpful. The Melia Cohiba also has an excellent cigar
bar, El Relicario. The room is windowless and has a dark, quiet atmosphere. A roller plies his craft at the entrance and the bar is excellent. On the wall by the humidor are photos of famous cigar smokers. Also on the walls are shelves containing bric-a-brac, including cigar boxes with graffiti from
visiting clients. The prices are similar to those at Vegas Robaina, but the selection isn't what it used to be. Of course, you can always buy a box of something downstairs and come up here to savour one. This is a wonderful place to have a stiff drink, a great cigar, and a rest.
La Casa Del Habano, the worldwide chain of authorized Habanos shops, has four stores in Havana and we recommend a couple of these as "musts" to include on your itinerary. One of these, (La Casa del Tobaco 5 y 16 (at Fifth Avenue and 16th, Miramar) is one of the best in Cuba. Having
been redone inside and out, it is a showpiece and a great place to make a day of it. There is a comfortable smoking lounge with single cigars, a bar and a reasonably affordable restaurant.
And The Casa del Habano Marina Hemingway (248 and Fifth Avenue, Santa Fe), although located at the extreme western end of Havana, is worth the drive. This cheery shop has a small bar, and a small smoking lounge. The best feature here is the price on their singles, based on the box price, and the
best that we've found. While fanciers of Cohiba Lanceros and Esplendidos will have a tough time finding boxes anywhere in Havana, they can purchase a number of singles here, without paying a premium. The walk-in humidor also had a selection of boxed tasty treats.
The Partagas Cigar Factory (520 Industria, Old Havana) is the most famous spot for cigars in Havana. Built in the late 19th century, it is the only factory open for public tours. The shop has a cigar roller and a bar. Sit down, have a mojito or Cuba libre and consider the purchase of a box. The
store manager is Abel Exposito, who is renowned for his knowledge. Now that the prices here are the same as elsewhere, it also may be the place to get those difficult-to-find cigars.
Finally, don't overlook the duty-free shop at the new Terminal 3 at Jose Marti airport. While its prices are the same as elsewhere, it offers a great selection, including many cabinet boxes of 50 cigars of some of the best brands. In addition, the shop has a fine selection of accessories, such
as Cohiba lighters and Cuban marble ashtrays. Those pressed for time may find this outlet to be the best bet.
There's certainly no shortage of cigars in Cuba this winter. Production is up: It seems the authorities have realized that many visitors come to Havana looking for cigars, not for sugar. And the anti-smoking lobby has yet to make major inroads, meaning that smokers can light up just about
anywhere, except in buses and taxis.
For further information, visit members.xoom.com/holysmokes/.
Fred and Lynn Kuzyk are founders of the Southern Ontario Cigar Society (905-336-0251). Lynn Kuzyk is manager of Holy Smokes Tobacconists at Fortinos, Plains Road, in Burlington, Ont.
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