CUBA NEWS
August 20, 2004

FROM CUBA
Outcasts.com

Rafael Ferro

PINAR DEL RÍO, Cuba, July (www.cubanet.org) - The marginal neighborhoods of this city have their own life. Their inhabitants show their faces and you realize how desperate they are. Those faces are like a sign of the life their owners have been forced to lead.

I visited one of the marginal neighborhoods of the city. It can be said that it's the banner marginal neighborhood of the locality. It is called the Maica district and is one of the most densely populated. It has a main street that is only paved halfway. After that it turns into an impassable road of mud and smelly puddles. On the right side of that street are other streets that lead into the eastern part of the district. They're all dirt.

I took the first street and went as far as the bodega, the corner grocery store. A bodega is almost always a good place to listen to rumors around the city that later can take form and become news and, in the best cases, give shape to a good chronicle.

I arrive at the store. An old friend works there. His name is Argeo. I greet him and he gives me a half dozen cigarettes. He almost always does this and I thank him. The store is literally empty. There are neither people nor products in it, except for cigarettes and cigars. It's the same panorama in nearly all the bodegas in Cuba. On the island the products sold to the populace through the ration book are distributed at the end of the month, which means a person doesn't have much to buy the rest of the time.

The few people who go to a bodega do it to buy cigarettes or cigars. The old man with whom I spoke this morning came for that reason. Argeo sold him the cigarette, and the old man asked me for matches for a light. I gave them to him and, thanking me, he leaned against the counter to calmly smoke. My friend Argeo says to him:

"Look, Hildalgo, this friend of mine is a journalist. But he isn't one of those government ones, he writes for abroad."

"We're screwed then," replied the old man. "We'll never be able to read what the man writes."

He is right. Almost everything I write is published on the internet or abroad. And the internet is prohibited for everyone in Cuba. Perhaps the old man doesn't know anything about the internet, but he's old enough to know about bans and prohibitions in Cuba. "Are you retired, old man?"

"Well, I'll tell you I was retired by force. It's now been 45 years since this government retired me. I was rather young, don't you think? I was 35 years old."

The old man takes a long puff on the cigarette.

"I was the owner of this very store, my friend. Shortly after January 1st of '59, the government took it away from me. Then and there I swore I would never work with these people. All my children left for the United States ten years ago. I live here with just my wife. Now they support me. First I supported them. It's got to be that way, doesn't it? I made my money with my store. Previously, anyone could make money. Now there's no chance for anyone. Look how the store is, it shows the misery in every corner. Did these people take it away from me for that?"

Versión original en español

 

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