CUBA NEWS
January 12, 2004

Up close with Castro

Lt. Gov. Andre Bauer, who found Castro to be "disarming and sincere," was accompanied on the visit by Commissioner of Agriculture Charles R. Sharpe, state Rep. Chip Limehouse and executives of Maybank Shipping.

By Ron Menchaca , of The Post and Courier Staff. Charleston Post Courier, SC.

HAVANA--Exhausted from a private three-hour exchange with Cuban President Fidel Castro, a South Carolina trade delegation returned home Saturday, still spellbound from an unexpected meeting with the communist dictator that rambled into the early morning hours.

What had been a remote possibility at the beginning of the four-day trade mission in the capital city of Havana turned into a frank and enlightening exchange with a devout communist leader rarely seen in person by his own people.

WADE SPEES/STAFF

Cuban President Fidel Castro makes a point Friday during a meeting in Havana with a group of South Carolina elected officials and businessmen. The delegation was in Cuba to promote trade.

For the delegation, led by Lt. Gov. Andre Bauer, the encounter offered a rare, up-close dialogue with one of the most recognizable and controversial world leaders of modern times.

Bauer, who found Castro to be "disarming and sincere," was accompanied on the visit by Commissioner of Agriculture Charles R. Sharpe, state Rep. Chip Limehouse and executives of Maybank Shipping.

On Thursday, the delegation secured a commitment from the Cuban government to purchase $10 million worth of agricultural products from South Carolina's farmers. Dozens of states are exporting such goods to Cuba under changes made in 2001 to the long-standing Cuban embargo.

The Republican delegation members disavowed themselves from Castro's political beliefs but made known their opposition to U.S. policy toward the Caribbean island nation of more than 11 million people. As part of the trade commitment, the delegation agreed to encourage their federal counterparts to push for lifting the trade and travel ban on Cuba.

The Bush administration opposes normal trade relations with Cuba as long as the country maintains a socialist system that strips Cubans of democratic freedoms through rigid food rationing and limited job opportunities.

Delegates said their talk with Castro altered lifelong negative impressions. Still, they expect some backlash from the visit from those who consider such coziness with Cuba risky politics.

"I'm 65 years old and have done a lot of things -- met President Reagan and both Bushes," Sharpe said Saturday. "This is probably the highlight of my life here."

It was clear late Friday that something was about to happen, as maids cleared a seat at the center of the table, using a brush to wipe away food crumbs from dinner. Cuban officials paced around nervously and continually peered out the window toward the street.

Just before 9:30 p.m. Friday, after the delegation was wrapping up a dinner meeting with top Cuban trade officials, a convoy of three black 1990s Mercedes rolled up to the home in the upscale Havana neighborhood of Miramar and out stepped Castro.

"I was flabbergasted," said Maybank Shipping President Jack Maybank, who along with his son Jack Maybank Jr. set up the delegation's trip.

Castro, 77, appeared healthy and rested. He spoke in Spanish in a steady, commanding voice that prompted the guests to question recent news accounts suggesting the leader was in poor health.

"I expected to see a person who is not quite on the ball as one might think. That was not the case," Limehouse said. "I must admit he is somewhat imposing. When a communist leader sits across the table from you in full uniform, it's a different feeling."

Dressed in black shoes and his crisp, signature green military uniform, Castro sat straight up in his chair. He reached for and unwrapped a piece of hard candy from a dish on the table and popped it in his mouth.

"I don't eat much, and I drink little. I drink a little bit of wine because it has antioxidants," Castro said through an interpreter as he fidgeted with a Maybank Shipping brochure on the table. "I think it is very important to exercise your mind. A lot of people when they retire, they collapse. They grow old. I'm excited about my work."

The delegation members leaned forward in their seats, transfixed by Castro's dark-brown eyes. He spoke for long stretches on topics ranging from world hunger and farming methods to education and the effects hurricanes have had on Cuba's sugar cane plantations.

Displaying an enthusiasm for arcane statistics, Castro spewed dates and numbers relevant to his country's health care and education systems. He stroked his beard and waved his long index fingers for emphasis.

Castro did most of the talking. The state delegates and the other Cubans at the table were hesitant to interrupt his stream-of-consciousness flow.

Bauer occasionally attempted to steer Castro toward addressing the embargo or the Bush administration, but Castro answered with comments on entirely different topics.

"What I always tell American farmers is 'why should you worry. The thing that is in the shortest supply in the world is food.' "

Cuba has been on a mission in recent years to reduce its national operating costs, Castro said. As the sugar exports that drove the island's economy for decades continue to decline, tourism has emerged as Cuba's leading industry.

The country has shut down nearly half of its sugar melts, Castro said. "We have found a solution for unemployment by studying operating costs. You should not produce something if the operation cost is higher than the import cost."

Employees laid off from the closed sugar factories have been sent back to school, he said.

As Cuba struggles to recover from the 1991 collapse of the Soviet Union, its former communist ally and major trading partner, the country is importing millions of dollars worth of U.S. farm products. South Carolina will soon join the list of suppliers. The trade agreement signed last week calls for shipments of cattle, fruit, wheat and other goods.

The cargo will be shipped to Cuba on barges owned by Maybank's company. Castro seemed keenly interested in the custom vessels, peppering Maybank with questions about the barges' top speed and storage capacity.

"The day your barge came to Cuba, the news traveled all over the world," Castro said of a July visit of a Maybank barge to Cuba. It was the first shipment by a U.S.-flagged vessel crewed by Americans to unload at Havana's port since the embargo began more than 40 years ago.

As the clock ticked toward midnight Friday, Castro seemed unconcerned about the time. He never noticeably looked at a digital black watch on his left wrist. About two hours into the conversation, he said he had to leave for another meeting. He then stayed for another hour to explain his habit of reviewing details of public polling from Cuba's populace.

"We've been doing this the last four years. It's very helpful. Cubans speak about everything and complain about everything and have no qualms about giving an opinion. You cannot rule a country unless you do it by consensus."

Castro said he encourages critical viewpoints in the polling. Yet, his regime has a record of stifling political dissent.

The "protocol" house where Friday's meeting took place is one of dozens of government-owned safe houses scattered throughout the city. Most belonged to Cuban elite before the 1959 communist revolution that brought Castro to power and marked his rise to global notoriety.

When their owners fled the country for the United States, Castro seized the properties to use for entertaining VIPs. Ordinary Cubans have little access to Castro. He moves around between dozens of homes to avoid a routine that might assist in his assassination. There have been numerous attempts.

Meetings with him are not guaranteed until he walks in the door, and they are held very late in the day.

Before Castro was whisked away to one of the waiting Mercedes, he and the delegation exchanged gifts -- a crystal candelabra and cuff links with the state seal for the feisty Cuban and Cohiba cigars in Castro-autographed wooden boxes for the state officials.

Star-struck, the delegation members looked at each other for a reality check as Castro walked out into the wee hours of the night.



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