CUBA NEWS
October 14, 2003

CUBA NEWS
The Miami Herald

Wed in Cuba: She loves me not

Marriages between foreigners and Cubans have skyrocketed, and while many relationships succeed, many others fail -- sometimes by design.

By Tracey Eaton, The Dallas Morning News. Posted on Mon, Oct. 13, 2003 in The Miami Herald.

HAVANA -- Ted Oswick has heard the tales of woe. Older men venture into Cuba and marry young, beautiful women, only to be dumped once they get back home. But Oswick said he is sure that his romance with a Havana maid is for real.

''I see men in their 60s with teenagers and it sickens me,'' said Oswick, an information technology worker from England. "But I'm not that much older than my girlfriend. I'm 54 and she's 37. We're both adults and we have a genuine relationship.''

The number of marriages between foreigners and Cubans has skyrocketed since the early 1990s, when the socialist government turned to tourism to save its economy. but while many relationships succeed, many others fall apart, leaving a trail of heartache, shattered hopes and betrayal.

Foreign diplomats who grant travel visas to couples say differences in customs, language and age can lead to trouble.

'NAIVE' ABOUT LOVE

'Some men figure, 'I'm 50 years old. When am I ever going to have a woman who's 20 again?' So they get married,'' said a European diplomat, speaking on condition of anonymity. "But these men are naive. Not that many 20-year-olds are really in love with someone who could be their father or grandfather.''

Joaquín Pérez found out about that the hard way. He was 71 when he traveled to Cuba from Spain, looking for love. He thought he found it in a woman who was then 28.

''She always told me that the age difference didn't matter and that she liked mature men,'' Pérez said in a letter posted in the Spanish Embassy as a warning to his countrymen.

A MARRIED MAN

A few months after their marriage, the woman stole his car and abandoned him, he alleged in the letter.

Women have sad stories of their own.

Yuneisy Pérez, 29, married a Mexican man, only to find out that he already had a wife.

''I ended up living in an apartment he rented for me in Mexico, but he seldom slept there,'' she said. "After almost a year, I fled and moved in with a Mexican family. He found me and had me deported to Cuba.''

Foreigners can't take Cuban women from the island without a government-sanctioned letter of invitation requiring them to pay the Cubans' expenses abroad. Some Cubans traveling to Portugal get off the plane in Madrid, leaving their foreign lovers out to dry. But the men are often so ashamed that they don't report it.

''They keep it quiet in the hope that no one will find out,'' a European diplomat said.

In one case, a foreigner spent $50,000 on a Cuban woman in just two weeks, he said.

''Meanwhile, she slept with at least three of his friends, got a job at a casino and dumped him,'' the diplomat said. "He called me, asking how he could have her expelled from the country. But that couldn't be done.''

Cuban officials could not provide any figures on marriages between foreigners and Cubans, but scattered evidence suggests a dramatic increase.

Only 15 Spaniards married Cubans in 1990, the Spanish newspaper El País reported in 1997. That number shot to 670 by 1993 and to 1,190 by 1996, a year when 117,000 Spaniards of both sexes visited the island.

Today, Spain and Italy each record between 1,000 and 1,500 such marriages a year, diplomats say. Mexico, Canada, Germany and Portugal also see a considerable number, they say.

Certainly, tens of thousands of Cuban women -- and some men -- have married foreigners in the past decade, diplomats say.

Some Cuban men complain that foreigners are plundering the island of its greatest natural resource -- its women.

ANNUAL VISIT

That would be people like Jorge Represa, a tourist from Spain, who says he visits Cuba every year in hope of finding a partner. ''Yes, I want to get married. I want someone to take care of me,'' said Represa, 67, who currently is seeing Yania Fabar, a 30-year-old from Havana.

Cuban officials play down the phenomenon, saying that when the Soviet Union was the country's chief sponsor, scores of islanders married Russians and other foreigners.

Now most visitors are from Europe and Latin America, said one official, who requested anonymity, "so it's no surprise that there are marriages. And most marry for love. I don't agree that most Cubans marry foreigners because they disagree with the political system or want to leave the country. That's a distortion.''

HORROR STORIES

But Cubans say they hear plenty of horror stories about marriages gone bad.

''I know of one Cuban woman who married a man from Saudi Arabia,'' a woman from Havana said. "She slept with his brother, and he traded her for a camel.''

''Yeah, I've heard that story,'' said another Cuban, Olga Medina, 27. "Did you hear about the Italian who put his Cuban wife in a cage? He fed her bananas and invited his friends to watch and make fun of her.''

No one knows how many of these stories are true, but it's top-drawer gossip in a country torn between revolution and the encroaching outside world. Despite such experiences, some Cubans remain intent on snagging a foreigner.

PRAYING FOR A HUSBAND

''Every night, I hope and pray to the Virgin of Charity that I will find a husband who will take me from Cuba,'' a 25-year-old Havana woman said.

And sometimes there is a happy ending. Yordanka Sarmientos, 26, a former teacher who was visiting home, readily admits that she married a Spaniard ''for pure convenience'' because she wanted to live abroad.

But ''once I was living in Spain, I fell in love with him and he with me,'' she said, and they have been together since.

'La Mamá' of mameys

Cocina by Maricel E. Presilla. Posted on Thu, Oct. 09, 2003 in The Miami Herald.

A gigantic old tree stands in Donald Pantín's lush, one-acre backyard in Pinecrest. From massive branches that shoot straight out looking for the sun grow football-shaped fruits with leathery skin the texture and color of sandpaper.

Nothing about the stark exterior of the fruit prepares you for what is revealed when you cut one open: a long black seed, shiny as onyx, nestled in a vivid, custardy pulp the color of wild salmon.

Miraculously, the tree has withstood the ravages of time, seasonal storms and even Hurricane Andrew. The family calls it ''La Mamá,'' for this is, literally, the mother of the sweet and aromatic Pantín mamey, one of the tastiest tropical fruits found today in Florida markets.

''La Mamá'' is a relic of the time when Donald's father, Eugenio Pantín, born in la Coruña in the Spanish region of Galicia, began experimenting with tropical fruits on his five-acre farm in the Redland. Donald recalls how his father, a retired electrician newly arrived from Chicago, became a Florida gentleman farmer with a passion for New World fruit trees of the sapotaceae family -- mamey, sapodilla, canistel and caimito. Through trial and error, Eugenio mastered the technique of grafting, the only way to breed most fruit trees true.

In the early 1950s, a Cuban émigré named Josefina Jiménez gave Eugenio three mamey seeds she had smuggled into the U.S. in her brassiere. He was no stranger to the fruit, having lived in Havana and then in Key West, where he worked in a Cuban cigar factory. He planted the seeds and used the unknown seedlings as rootstock to graft budwood from an old, proven mamey tree that grew near a fire station in Key West. (That tree had Cuban roots, too, by way of the 19th century exodus of dissidents from the island.)

The one survivor from Eugenio's experiment is the 60-foot tree that towers over Donald Pantín's sprawling ranch house. It was planted in 1953, the same year as Fidel Castro's attack on the Moncada barracks in Santiago de Cuba, the symbolic beginning of the revolution that would ultimately create an insatiable desire for mamey among Cubans who had fled to South Florida.

Because of the outstanding quality of its fruit -- a sweet, aromatic pulp with a bright, salmon-red color and little fiber -- the tree became the parent stock for Eugenio's mamey grove. Soon, news of his superior fruit spread among connoisseurs, who came to know it as the "Key West mamey.''

Donald Pantín took charge of the family mamey business in 1963 after his father's death. At around that time, the respected nurseryman Lawrence Zill, who had investigated the commercial potential of Eugenio's prized cultivar, christened it the Pantín mamey.

The timing could not have been better for the Pantín's future.

''Of all tropical fruits, mamey is the one that represents the nostalgia for Cuba,'' says Carlos Balerdi, a horticulturist at the University of Florida's Cooperative Extension Service in Miami-Dade County.

Exiled Cubans longed for a steady supply of mamey and were willing to buy it at any price. (I remember paying $5 a pound in the 1980s.) Recognizing this eager market, Redland farmers rushed to grow the fruit. The intense demand led to such frequent thefts that many groves were protected with barbed wire and watchdogs, as if the trees held golden nuggets.

It was at the height of mamey fever 15 years ago that I first met Donald Pantín and his wife, Sara. Of course, I was shown the majestic parent tree.

''She is the mother of every single Pantín mamey grown in Florida,'' Donald said proudly.

Today, Balerdi says, 95 percent of the mamey grown on the 350 acres devoted to its cultivation in South Florida is the Pantín cultivar, in season from July through October. The rest is planted in such varieties as Pace, El Viejo and the large Salvadoran Magaña, which come in season at different times of year, creating an almost uninterrupted supply.

''They all have merit,'' says Balerdi. "But none compares in flavor and aroma with Pantín mamey.''

Culinary historian and author Maricel E. Presilla is the chef/co-owner of Zafra in Hoboken, N.J. Her latest book is The New Taste of Chocolate.


 

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